How to Crochet Balls and Spheres

The sphere or ball is one of the most common and essential forms when crocheting Amigurumi. Be it for heads, bodies or other limbs and elements, the crocheted ball is essential for all Amigurumi creations.

As clear and simple as a crocheted ball may seem, there are 2 different ways to crochet it. One variant creates a slightly more “round” looking ball while the second variant creates a more “angular” appearance.

Crochet Balls

Needed Techniques

  • Magic Ring
  • Single Crochet Stitches (SC)
  • Increase
  • Decrease
  • Close Openings

Needed Materials and Tools

  • Yarn colors: Any color
  • 2.5 mm Crochet Hook
  • Tapestry Needle
  • Scissor
  • Polyfill
  • This pattern was crocheted using the “Schachenmayr Catania” yarn in the following colors: marsalarot (# 396), wolke (# 247), moos (# 412)

The “round” Variant

Each ball is almost always crocheted in the same way. First, you crochet a circle, which determines the approximate size of the ball to be formed, then several rounds are crocheted without any increases or decreases and finally decreasing each round till the sphere is closed.

The difference between the two variations lies ultimately in the distribution of these increases and decreases.

The following variant should be the go-to variant for every Amigurumi Designer for how to crochet balls and variations of these.

The reason why the following variant gives a nicer, more rounded ball lies in the fact that from round 4 and then every 2nd subsequent round, the increases are offset. As a result, not all increases in all rounds are on top of each other and a rounder appearance is created.

“Round” Ball Crochet Pattern

Use the checkboxes to mark your finished rounds, rows and steps.

The Ball is crocheted in spiral rounds.
1. Round: 6 SC in Magic Ring. (6 stitches)

2. Round: 6x [1 increase]. (12 stitches)

3. Round: 6x [1 SC, 1 increase]. (18 stitches)

4. Round: 1 SC, 1 increase, 5x [2 SC, 1 increase], 1 SC. (24 stitches)

5. Round: 6x [3 SC, 1 increase]. (30 stitches)

6. Round: 2 SC, 1 increase, 5x [4 SC, 1 increase], 2 SC. (36 stitches)

You should now get a fairly round circle. As you can see, the increases in rounds 4 and 6 were crocheted slightly offset compared to the previous rounds. If you crochet a larger ball then crochet the increases always offset in every 2nd round after the 4th round.

Now comes the middle part, you crochet as many rounds as for the circle plus 1 more round, say, in this case, 7 rounds are crocheted with the last number of stitches counted on the circle.

This procedure for the middle part is also used for smaller and larger balls (number of rounds for the initial circle + 1 more round = crochet rounds for the centerpiece).

7.-13. Round: 7 rounds, each round 36 SC. (36 stitches)

Finally, crochet decreases until the ball is closed. In general, use the “invisible decrease” as this produces a clearer stitch image than the “normal decrease”.

14. Round: 2 SC, 1 decrease, 5x [4 SC, 1 decrease], 2 SC. (30 stitches)
15. Round: 6x [3 SC, 1 decrease]. (24 stitches)
16. Round: 1 SC, 1 decrease, 5x [2 SC, 1 decrease], 1 SC. (18 stitches)
17. Round: 6x [1 SC, 1 decrease]. Fill the Ball with polyfill. (12 stitches)

18. Round: 6x [1 decrease]. (6 stitches)
Finish: Cut the yarn generously, close the opening, weave in and hide the leftover yarn. Take a look at the “invisible finish” for the most even and unobtrusive finish. Done is the ball!

The “angular” Variant

The following variant should be avoided from the beginning, as this generates a clearly “angular” looking sphere. The reason why this variant is shown here is only to illustrate why this version should NOT be used.

The resulting “corners” are particularly noticeable in larger balls, which is particularly unpleasant when this is then used as the head, body or other elements of an Amigurumi that is supposed to be “organic” and round looking (with exceptions if it should be a robot).

This variant is almost the same as the previous variant, but in some rounds, the increases and decreases are not offset. Look for yourself.

“Angular” Ball Crochet Pattern

The Ball is crocheted in spiral rounds.
1. Round: 6 SC in Magic Ring. (6 stitches)
2. Round: 6x [1 increase]. (12 stitches)
3. Round: 6x [1 SC, 1 increase]. (18 stitches)
4. Round: 6x [2 SC, 1 increase]. (24 stitches)
5. Round: 6x [3 SC, 1 increase]. (30 stitches)
6. Round: 6x [4 SC, 1 increase]. (36 stitches)
7. Round: 6x [5 SC, 1 increase]. (42 stitches)

And here you can already see the differences. Since all increases are always on the increases of the previous rounds, instead of a circle a hexagon is created. This is also the reason why you should avoid this variant from the start.

After all, you want the best possible result when crocheting your own Amigurumi, and the resulting animals should look round and fluffy and not edgy and angular.

You continue with the middle section and then crochet decreases in the same ratio as the first 6 rounds till the ball is closed.

7.-13. Round: 7 rounds, each round 36 SC. (36 stitches)
14. Round: 6x [4 SC, 1 decrease]. (30 stitches)
15. Round: 6x [3 SC, 1 decrease]. (24 stitches)
16. Round: 6x [2 SC, 1 decrease]. (18 stitches)
17. Round: 6x [1 SC, 1 decrease]. Fill the Ball with polyfill. (12 stitches)
18. Round: 6x [1 decrease]. (6 stitches)
Finish: Cut the yarn generously, close the opening, weave in and hide the leftover yarn.

Comparison

Here are both balls in comparison, even if at first glance no big difference can be seen, but this difference becomes more and more visible the larger the balls are crocheted (left the “round” variant, right the “angular” variant).

Crochet individually sized balls

Start: Start with a Magic Ring with 6 SC. Crochet a circle with 6 increases per round. Crochet as many rounds until you reach the size you want your ball to get. Here you will find a crochet pattern for many more rounds if you want to crochet a larger initial circle and thus a larger ball as shown here.

Centerpiece: Then crochet as many rounds as you needed for the initial circle plus 1 more round. Crochet each round as many SC as stitches in the last round of the circle, no increases or decreases.

Finish: Finally, crochet 6 decreases per round until you have only 12 stitches left, fill the ball well with polyfill, then crochet the last round with another 6 decreases so that in the end there are only 6 stitches left and then close the opening.

Crochet a Medium Ball

The Ball is crocheted in spiral rounds.
1. Round: 6 SC in Magic Ring. (6 stitches)
2. Round: 6x [1 increase]. (12 stitches)
3. Round: 6x [1 SC, 1 increase]. (18 stitches)
4. Round: 1 SC, 1 increase, 5x [2 SC, 1 increase], 1 SC. (24 stitches)
5. Round: 6x [3 SC, 1 increase]. (30 stitches)
6.-11. Round: 6 rounds, each round 30 SC. (30 stitches)
12. Round: 6x [3 SC, 1 decrease]. (24 stitches)
13. Round: 1 SC, 1 decrease, 5x [2 SC, 1 decrease], 1 SC. (18 stitches)
14. Round: 6x [1 SC, 1 decrease]. Fill the Ball with polyfill. (12 stitches)
15. Round: 6x [1 decrease]. (6 stitches)
Finish: Cut the yarn generously, close the opening, weave in and hide the leftover yarn.

Crochet a Small Ball

The Ball is crocheted in spiral rounds.
1. Round: 6 SC in Magic Ring. (6 stitches)
2. Round: 6x [1 increase]. (12 stitches)
3. Round: 6x [1 SC, 1 increase]. (18 stitches)
4. Round: 1 SC, 1 increase, 5x [2 SC, 1 increase], 1 SC. (24 stitches)
5.-9. Round: 6 rounds, each round 24 SC. (24 stitches)
10. Round: 1 SC, 1 decrease, 5x [2 SC, 1 decrease], 1 SC. (18 stitches)
11. Round: 6x [1 SC, 1 decrease]. Fill the Ball with polyfill. (12 stitches)
12. Round: 6x [1 decrease]. (6 stitches)
Finish: Cut the yarn generously, close the opening, weave in and hide the leftover yarn.

All sizes again in comparison.

error: Content is protected !!!
9 Shares
Share
Pin9
Tweet